Paleopolis: We Discover the Ancient City of Corfu

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Ancient Corfu or Paleopolis

Paleopolis - the ancient Corfu
Paleopolis – the ancient Corfu

Step into the world of ancient wonders as you embark on an imaginative journey to the heart of Corfu’s past, known as Paleopolis, or the Old City.

Unveiled through archaeological marvels of the last century, this city traces back to the 8th century BC, emerging from the dreams of Dorian Greeks from Corinth, led by the visionary Chersikrates, in the mesmerizing stretch between Garitsa and Halikiopoulos lagoon.

While the modern city flourishes north of Garitsa Bay, flanked by the iconic Old and New Fortresses, the very spot where today’s airport stands was once the bustling harbor of this ancient haven.

Let your mind wander through the bustling streets of ancient Corfu, where the heartbeat of the town echoed from the grounds of the ancient market, and the Acropolis reigned supreme on the lofty peak of the Kanoni peninsula, now graced by Analipsis.

Gorgon medusa metope in Corfu archaeological museum
Gorgon Medusa metope in the Corfu Archaeological Museum

Echoes of history reverberate within the section of the ancient walls and the sentinel watchtower, offering a unique perspective as it gazes out over the runway instead of the sea. This path unfurls by the side of Corfu’s largest cemetery, a place where twilight unveils a dance of red votive lamps in the gentle breeze.

While tending their gardens, residents here find relics of the past, from cannonballs to fragments of an ancient world. Though tightly preserved now, the 1960s witnessed the development of Kanoni’s promontory, burying many archaeological treasures in the earth.

Follow the path onward, passing the ancient temple of Athena, and the road to Mon Repos Palace unravels. Just outside, you’ll glimpse extensive archaeological works, and within the palace grounds, a temple whispers of stories from centuries past.

Transport yourself back to bustling trade days, as colorful ships from countless tribes docked along the quayside, laden with vibrant wares exchanged in barter.

Intrigue lingers within a private estate on Kanoni, home to a magnificent lemon eucalyptus tree that stands as a living puzzle. Tree specialists vouch for its age—900 years, a species typically found oceans away in Australia. Could ancient sailors have woven this enigma into history, predating Captain Cook’s journey by nearly 700 years?

Beyond this, Garitsa’s realm reveals remains of Byzantine churches, a style divergent from the rest of the island. Among them, the exquisite Sts. Jason and Sosipatros Church beckons exploration—a haven that witnessed the birth of Christianity in Corfu, adorned with frescoes that tell tales of the ages.

Feel the pull of time as you journey through Paleopolis, where mysteries and stories unfold with every step, and history breathes life into ruins, reminding us of the resilience and spirit that shaped this enchanting land.

Historical Importance of the Ancient City of Kerkyra

Thucydides, the ancient historian and author of “History of the Peloponnesian War,” describes the ancient city of Kerkyra (Korkyra) as a powerful and well-fortified city-state with a strategic position in the Ionian Sea. He notes its strong naval presence and its importance in regional politics.

At that time, Kerkyra was a dominant naval force that exerted influence over its neighboring regions. After all, the Corfiots established colonies, such as the city of Epidamnus, which is located in what is now Albanian territory, known as Dyrrhachium today.

The city’s maritime strength allowed it to maintain control over nearby islands and coastal areas, making it a significant player in the geopolitics of the time.

Furthermore, Thucydides emphasizes Kerkyra’s role as a player in the larger conflict between Athens and Sparta, highlighting its alliance with Athens. This alliance led to conflicts with the nearby city-state of Corinth, which was allied with Sparta. The tensions and conflicts involving Kerkyra are discussed in Thucydides’ narrative of the Peloponnesian War.

Overall, Thucydides’ portrayal of Kerkyra underscores its political and naval importance in the ancient Greek world, as well as its involvement in the complex web of alliances and rivalries that shaped the historical events of his time.

More archaeological sites

The Monument of Menecrates

Menecrates monument in Corfu
Menecrates’ monument in Corfu

Nestled within the embrace of Garitsa, the Monument of Menecrates emerges as a captivating relic of the 6th century BC, a discovery that ignited the imagination when unearthed in 1843.

Its allure lies not only in its ancient origins but also in the enchanting archaic inscription that graces its form. This very inscription, a treasure suspended in time, is hailed as the oldest of its kind ever to grace Greek soil. Intriguingly, it beckons you to read it upside down, a secret twist that reveals Menekrates’ role as the consul of Corfu town in the vibrant Oianthi—a once-thriving town that now dances with echoes near the shores of Galaxidi, a charming seaport on the mainland of Greece.

As you stand before this testament to time, feel the layers of history unfold around you. This monument, with its enigmatic message and timeless aura, whispers tales of distant eras, bridging the gap between past and present.

The Tower of Nerantchicha

Nerantzicha tower in ancient Corfu
Nerantzicha Tower in ancient Corfu

Tucked away behind the cemetery, the Tower of Nerantchicha stands as a silent sentinel, a living link to the city’s past. This is an awe-inspiring wall of the 4th century BC, soaring 6 meters high, embracing the city’s heart. And right there, this tower stood, unwavering against time’s relentless current.

But its tale doesn’t end with ancient days. Imagine it transforming, a chameleon of history, into a Byzantine church. How fascinating, isn’t it?

This tower, once a protector, embraced a new role as a place of worship. As you gaze upon its weathered stones, let your imagination wander through the ages.

From ancient defenders to spiritual seekers, the Tower of Nerantchicha echoes with stories of resilience and transformation, inviting you to become part of its ongoing narrative.

Temple of Artemis

Ancient Corfu - Temple of Artemis
Ancient Corfu – Temple of Artemis

Embark on a journey back in time to the heart of ancient Corfu’s spirituality, where the temple of Artemis Gorgon holds its mystical allure. Imagine the 6th century BC, where this sacred sanctuary stood, a place of reverence and connection to the divine, nestled near the serene monastery of Saint Theodore.

Though discovered in 1822, time has been both a guardian and a thief, leaving us with only a few precious fragments of its grandeur. Wander the grounds, and you’ll uncover more stories in the whispers of smaller buildings that once adorned this hallowed space.

And that’s not all—venture to the Mon Repos estate and delve into the mysteries of the past. Here, two more ancient temples lie in wait. One, a tribute to Apollo, stands as a testament to the Doric style, while fragments from a temple, older than time itself, hint at the veneration of Hera. Let the ancient stones whisper secrets of faith, honor, and devotion as you explore these remnants of a spiritual legacy.

The Palace of Mon Repos

Corfu - palace of Mon Repos
Corfu – the Palace of Mon Repos

Nestled to the east of Paleopolis lies the elegant neoclassical jewel, Mon Repos. Imagine the year 1830, when the visionary British Commissioner, Sir Frederick Adams, breathed life into this architectural masterpiece. Step beyond its walls and into a world where history met royalty—this stunning edifice once served as a cherished summer escape for the royal family.

While it may not be steeped in the ancient mysteries of Corfu, Mon Repos is a bridge between eras. Wander its halls and gardens, and you’ll find more than just a building—it’s a gateway to the past. Now, this regal residence has evolved into more than a memory; it’s become the haven of the Paleopolis Museum, where relics and stories of ancient times come alive. Allow Mon Repos to be your guide on a journey that transcends centuries, weaving together the threads of tradition and modernity in a tapestry of splendor.

See More about Mon Repos

Corfu sites in Paleopolis’ wider area

Behold a captivating snapshot from the realm of Google—a window into the enchanting expanse of Paleopolis, nestled just south of the charming Garitsa. If you let your eyes wander, you’ll catch the airport gracefully lounging to the left.

But wait, don’t just glance—dive in! Click on this visual gateway to unlock a treasure trove of history. Follow the trail of ancient monuments, each a whisper from the past, and watch as Mon Repos emerges like a gem amidst the landscape. It’s not just a photo; it’s a portal to a world where echoes of time are waiting to be unveiled. So, go ahead and click—it’s your invitation to embark on a journey through the ages!

Paleopolis wider area from google
Paleopolis’ wider area from Google

 

Corfu’s Summer Season

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How long is Corfu’s summer season?

Paleokastritsa from Lakones village
Paleokastritsa from Lakones village

In the 1970s when Corfu first became widely visited by tourists the season stretched from the end of March until early November.

Of course, the island was not full for all those months, but from May15th-September 15th it was difficult to find empty rooms in the hotels.

People in Corfu pitied those in other parts of Greece such as Halkidiki, which had a much shorter season.

But then fashion changed and the number of visitors fell.
Flights were canceled and eventually, it became difficult to get direct to Corfu before early May, or after mid-September.

This was sad as the people who liked coming early and late were usually people who really loved the island, who wanted to walk through the hill villages in the cooler weather, see the wildflowers and migrating birds, paint, and do things other than lying on a beach and bake.

Fortunately, first Easyjet and then Ryanair began new routes to the island, offering low-cost flights which benefitted both visitors who liked coming out of the main season, and also Corfu residents wishing to go in the other direction.

Additionally, these companies began flights to other parts of Europe- Oslo, Milan, etc. and a new market began to build up.
These flights start early and go on later than most of the traditional charter companies.

The main tour companies may still be wary of venturing outside the peak season, but these low price flight companies have given opportunities for groups of like-minded travelers to be able to enjoy all the things Corfu has to offer.
There are now cookery holidays, Tai Chi courses, and many more unusual vacations available, and groups are accommodated in one of the several places arranged specifically to cater to their needs.

This market is still building up but it is the new Corfu, all the old attractions but with so much more to offer the visitor.

Corfu’s Notable Foreign Residents and Celebrities

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Corfu’s notable foreign residents from the 60s to today

Corfu has indeed captured the attention of numerous celebrities and notable figures over the years, drawn in by its natural beauty, historical significance, and alluring lifestyle.

Many of these figures opted for brief visits, immersing themselves in the island’s charms for a few days.

Moreover, a handful of them even became property owners on the island. While the list provided may not encompass every individual, here are some notable names who have either visited or made a stay in Corfu in the past:

William Gladstone

William Gladstone
William Gladstone

During the British Protectorate (1815-1864) there were a number of notable residents of Corfu, not least the future prime minister William Gladstone, and the landscape artist and humourist Edward Lear, who produced wonderful watercolors of Corfu in those days.

Gerald Durrell

Gerald Durrell
Gerald Durrell

In more modern times the Durrell family, particularly Gerald Durrell, the naturalist, and his older brother Lawrence Durrell (the novelist), brought Corfu’s delights to a wider audience by their books and can be said to have been the first tourists.

Celebrities of the 1960s

Roger Furse-Ines Furse-Vivien Leigh-Juli Damaskinos
Roger Furse-Ines Furse-Vivien Leigh-Juli Damaskinos

Corfu has indeed captured the attention of numerous celebrities and notable figures over the years, drawn in by its natural beauty, historical significance, and alluring lifestyle.

Many of these figures opted for brief visits, immersing themselves in the island’s charms for a few days. Moreover, a handful of them even became property owners on the island.

Also, It’s widely recognized that Corfu holds a special preference among the members of Europe’s royal families, surpassing other islands in popularity.

While the list provided may not encompass every individual, here are some notable names who have either visited or made a stay in Corfu in the past:

  1. Prince Philip (Duke of Edinburgh): Prince Philip was born in Corfu in 1921 as a member of the Greek and Danish royal families. His birthplace, the Mon Repos palace, is a well-known landmark on the island.
  2. Lawrence Durrell: The British novelist and poet Lawrence Durrell lived in Corfu during the 1930s. He wrote the popular “Corfu Trilogy,” which includes “My Family and Other Animals,” based on his experiences on the island.
  3. Gerald Durrell: The younger brother of Lawrence Durrell, Gerald Durrell, was a naturalist, zookeeper, and conservationist. He spent his formative years on Corfu, as described in his book “My Family and Other Animals.”
  4. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis: The former First Lady of the United States and her children visited Corfu in the 1960s.
  5. Tom Hanks: The American actor and his wife, Rita Wilson, have been known to vacation in Greece, and Corfu could be among their destinations.
  6. The Rothschild Family: Members of the wealthy Rothschild family have been associated with Corfu and have owned properties on the island.
  7. Aristotelis Onassis: The Greek shipping magnate, who was known for his relationships with prominent women like Maria Callas and Jacqueline Kennedy, had connections to the Greek islands, including Corfu.
  8. Edward Lear: The English artist, writer, and poet visited Corfu and created a series of drawings and watercolors depicting the island’s landscapes.
  9. Kaiser Wilhelm II: The former German Emperor and King of Prussia spent time in Corfu during his exile after World War I.
  10. Various European Royalty: Corfu has historically been a favored destination for European royals, including members of the British, Greek, and other European royal families.

Many other notable individuals have visited or had connections to Corfu over the years. The island’s beauty, history, and charm have attracted a diverse range of personalities from different walks of life.

Lady Alexandra Metcalfe, whose late husband had been the Duke of Windsor’s aide at the time of the abdication, and whose father was a notable viceroy of India, Lord Curzon, lived at Kommeno for many years, and also there was Princess Sophia, sister of the Duke of Edinburgh.

Further north the former editor of The Sunday Times, Frank Giles had his home, whilst on the west coast, just south of Paleokastritsa, was the house built by Lord Glenconner, for many years only accessible by water.

Actors and Singers

By the 1960s Corfu’s charms were becoming well known, and the stage and screen designer Roger Furse and his wife built a home on the hill above Benitses.

They were shortly joined by the actor and writer Emlyn Williams, and the publisher Hamish Hamilton.

One Christmas Vivien Leigh came to stay and was enchanted by the abandoned villa of St John of the Pigeons, south of Benitses. She planned to buy it but sadly died shortly after her return from the island.

Her former husband Laurence Olivier visited regularly, and for many years the Corfu Bar had a panel on the wall containing their autographs.

Another actor, Albert Finney, and his then-wife Anouk Aimee bought a property at Ipsos, whilst actor Peter Bull‘s small home perched on a cliff in Paxos, just outside Lakka.

Don’t forget about the famous actors and singers who made their way to the island, including John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison, The Moody Blues, Robert Stigwood, Cat Stevens, Ava Gardner, Warren Beatty, Paul Newman, Doris Day, Gregory Peck, Audrey Hepburn, and many more.

It’s interesting to note that this magnetic attraction to Corfu was predominantly a phenomenon of the 20th century, and with the rise of mass tourism, it’s apparent that its appeal has started to wane.

Across Corfu Island

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Across Corfu island – from east coast to west ..on foot

From the top of Agioi Deka looking to west coast
From the top of Agioi Deka looking to the west coast

Hey there, adventure seekers! If you’re looking to trade the usual road trip for a bit of excitement, I’ve got a journey that’ll have you feeling like a true explorer. Let’s talk about the scenic route from Benitses to Agios Gordios – it’s not your average drive, but boy, is it worth it.

Benitses and Agios Gordios are two resort gems facing each other across the island, separated by only about 6 km. Now, you’d think a drive between them would be a breeze, but the roads have a surprise in store. Up and down you go, winding through the landscape, and that leisurely drive takes a good half hour.

But for those with a taste for adventure, there’s another way to journey between these two havens. Strap on your hiking boots, because walkers have conquered this route in less than 3 hours – talk about a scenic sweat session!

So, here’s the plan. Depart from Benitses and ascend the steep track leading to the quaint village of Stavros. Along the way, catch your breath at the small Agia Paraskevi church, where a spring offers refreshment to parched throats. Emerging from olive groves, you step into a village where time seems to have stood still for centuries. Stop by the bakery for fresh wood-cooked bread – a slice of authenticity that you won’t forget.

Then, it’s a downhill jaunt to a junction that marks the next leg of your journey. Keep your eyes peeled for a sign pointing you toward the monastery of Pantokrator (aka Holy Spirit). It’s worth the detour, trust me. You’ll climb to the peak of the hill, where a crater from a long-extinct volcano awaits. Nestled within is a charming monastery and a sprawling orchard.

If you’re lucky, the keeper might open the gates for you. But even if he’s away, the tranquility of this spot will captivate you. Picnic tables and friendly feline companions make it hard to leave. And oh, the views! Turn east, and you’ll gaze upon Corfu Town, the Corfu airport, and Gastouri village with the majestic Achilleion Palace atop. To the west, you’ll take in the hills, ancient villages, and the glistening sea beyond.

Prepare for another surprise – Corfu’s second-highest hill, Agii Deka, unveils its olive groves, vineyards, and lush vegetation. In season, you’ll spot rare wild orchids, delicate cyclamen, and the graceful autumn crocus. The tarmacked track, although narrow, traces the old donkey path all the way to Ano Garouna village.

With the descent into Kato Garouna and onwards, you’re on the home stretch. A well-deserved reward awaits – the sparkling blue waters of the Ionian Sea at Agios Gordios beach, perfect for a refreshing swim. It’s a journey that’s not just about the destination; it’s about embracing the journey itself, savoring every step, and discovering the hidden gems along the way. So, adventurers, lace up those shoes and let the path lead you to an unforgettable experience!

Corfu Town in the Winter

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Corfu City during the quiet winter period

Liston on Corfu Town in the Winter
Liston on Corfu Town in the Winter

A stroll through Corfu Town in the Winter in the evening once the visitors have departed reveals a completely different place to the thriving metropolis seen on a summer’s morning.

Leave the Esplanade and walk along St Spyridon’s street, a busy thoroughfare in summer but deserted in winter, with a few cats skulking around. Worshippers go in and out of the famous church, offering their prayers to the Saint who has protected Corfu for centuries.

Walking down the alleyways of the old town past shuttered shops you realize that the town has not changed in hundreds of years. You can imagine the serenading that went on in carnival season, under the prettiest girls’ windows, the cloaked and masked figures going to a party, and the courting couples wandering down to the harbor.

The few shops are lit up to shine like jewels in the surrounding darkness, their wares appearing exotic to the passers-by. These shops cater to the local population.

In one window a man can be seen ironing clothes, whilst a few doors away a seamstress is bent over a sewing machine. Another has a selection of wood-burning stoves for sale, something the summer visitor might be surprised to see.

Emerging onto the steps of the Metropolis is like going into a lighted room. Houses, churches, and the fort are all floodlit, their architectural features stand out and after the confined passageways of the Campiello district suddenly you are in a wide-open space.

To the left is the old gateway to Corfu Town, the Porta Spilia, through which all passengers and cargo arriving by sea entered the town.

There is a big arch for carriages to pass through and a small one for pedestrians.

The other gateways were destroyed at different times in the town’s history, except for Porta San Nicola which is located below the road, at Faliraki.

Overall

Corfu Town in the winter offers a different yet charming experience compared to its bustling summer months. The pace slows down, and you’ll find a more tranquil atmosphere. While some businesses may close during the off-season, many shops, cafes, and restaurants remain open to cater to locals and visitors.

The town’s historic charm remains intact, with its narrow streets and beautiful architecture still captivating even without the summer crowds. You’ll have the opportunity to explore the Old Town and its landmarks at a more leisurely pace, soaking in the history and culture without the hustle and bustle.

Weather-wise, Corfu Town experiences mild winters with occasional rain. The temperatures are cooler compared to the summer heat, making it a pleasant time for walks and explorations without dealing with the scorching sun.

Winter can be a great time for travelers seeking a quieter and more authentic experience. You’ll have the chance to interact more with the locals, enjoy cozy evenings at local cafes, and truly appreciate the town’s unique character. Just keep in mind that some attractions or activities might have limited operating hours during this time.

Corfu – Aqueduct of Commissioner Frederick Adam in Benitses

On an island like Corfu, with huge rainfall and rich and inexhaustible water table, one would expect that the water supply of the city of Corfu with plenty of good quality water would be an easy task, but this is not the case.

The water supply of ancient Corfu

Indeed, this was the case in ancient times when the ancient city was situated on the peninsula of Kanoni and took water from the local sources of Kardaki, and today named Vrisoula.

Water resources were enough even for the ever-growing city to the south, also wells were opened everywhere and gave good quality water.

That was also one of the foremost reasons for the choice of the city’s position by the first Greek settlers from Corinth.

The problem of water shortage in Corfu

After the 6th century AD, however, things changed.
The ancient city, already devastated by invaders abandoned by its residents who chose the new position with the sole criterion of safety.

So, as the core of the new city was selected, the steep ridge land of the old fortress and the land in front of it was the position for the extended new city.

Since then, the problems started because the subsoil of the old fortress and the city could only afford but only poor quality brackish water, which was not enough for a city that wants to grow and develop.

So right from the ‘ principle became apparent that infrastructure was needed capable of carrying water to the city from nearby sources, especially from the old source of Kardaki, which at the beginning was done by animals and humans due to its proximity.

The Roman aqueduct

The Romans first between the 1st and 2nd century AD during the Pax Romana era, created the first aqueduct network in Corfu and transported water from the source of St. Gourgis, source Lartourou in Vryoni area, and the source of Chrisiida.

Because of the low altitude of the sources, the Romans built a pumping mechanism that raises the water tank to altitude so which then leads to the system of the city with a natural flow.
How they did do that is described in the book of Tassos Katsaros …

Water supply during the Middle Ages and the Venetian period

During that period, the water supply of Corfu town was based primarily on the Roman aqueduct with small improvements and repairs. Data for this period are not well known, as at that time, very little attention was given to water and sanitation systems.

And the Venetians later continued to use the Roman aqueduct; they improved its efficiency by constructing large tanks in the city, which they filled with water from all around the city’s available sources and especially from the source of Kardaki.

In times of drought, however, the problem of water scarcity, especially for the poor people, took tragic proportions, especially during the summer months when either the mills were not in operation due to lack of water, or there was no flour.

The aqueduct of Commissioner Frederick Adam in Benitses

The period of British occupation finds Corfu with known problems, then the British High Commissioner, Sir Frederick Adam, decided to give a definitive solution to the problem by transferring plenty of fresh drinking water from the source of Carteri and St. Nicholas in the area of Benitses.

On October 18, 1830, in the Senate, he proposed the construction of an aqueduct in Benitses within 6.5 miles and at an altitude of 55 meters; the project budget was then 19,386 pounds.

The Senate unanimously accepted the proposal of Sir Adam, and the water supply of the city from the new aqueduct began with a majestic ceremony in the Esplanade square just 10 months later on August 7, 1831.

The fact that pure and clean water was imported to town for the first time was an event of huge importance for the citizens of Corfu.

Sir Frederick Adam made ​​several other projects, and also his wife was a local Corfiot, for certainly was the most likable commissioner who passed from Corfu.

Unfortunately, this project was to give a permanent solution to water supply problems.

Due to various defects in some parts, damages to pipelines, low altitude of the intermediate reservoir of Perama, wastage, and the always-growing demand, the problem returned.

Also, mills operating in Benitses contaminated the water with residues of flour, so the water arriving in Corfu was contaminated. The expropriation of the mill was impossible because of the high cost, but mostly because they were necessary to grind the wheat.

In 1875, the mills were purchased, and this solved the problem of haze, but also additional important projects were needed to improve the flow and the amount of water that reaches the city.

In 1908, after the proposal of engineer P. Loprestis for ​​a new water barrier, the so-called Gallery of Agia Pelagia was built in the Benitses aqueduct where the sources were. Also, at this time, many old pipes were replaced in the city center.

In 1926 after studying of engineers Gounaris and Georgalas, a pipeline was constructed at the mouth of Halikiopoulos lagoon, under the bridge that connects Perama with Corfu in front of the airport, which filled a huge reservoir on the top of Analipsis in Kanoni, so the aqueduct took the form which has about until today.

The aqueduct in recent years

In recent years, the water demand has increased dramatically, and sources in Benitses have been affected due to faults in the network, waste, and large leaks from the years can not fully supply the amount needed.

Many ways and projects have been proposed and have been done, most without success, as the failed experiment of water softening in Perama, which closed due to high cost.

Attempts were made and several new sources added in the system, causing the problem of quantity to disappear, but the problem of hardness due to the poor quality of water sources at Chrisida, Gardiki, and Tzavrou area remains.

Photos with texts from the Book of Tasos Katsaros

Conclusion

This page is based solely on data and photos from the book of Tassos Katsaros ” THE ANCIENT ROMAN AQUEDUCT OF CORFU”, the book refers to the ancient Roman aqueduct and in an extra added Annex deals with all subsequent works that have been done during followed centuries on the complex problem of water supply of the city of Corfu.

In the above pictures, there are pages with the original text of the book that contain all the details of the history of the aqueduct.

The material came into our hands in the form of digital photos from our friend and fellow citizen Alekos Stratigos, whom we thank.

It becomes obvious that the aqueduct in Benitses is a very important piece of history for our village, and maybe some younger people should start thinking and look for ways to harness this…..

Current aqueduct pipeline route
Current aqueduct pipeline route
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