Corfu Carnival: Echoes of a Venetian Past

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The Corfu Carnival

Corfu Carnival
Corfu Carnival

The Ancient celebrations in early spring that took place in honor of Dionysus, god of wine and fun, hoping for a good harvest and successful husbandry, are the forerunners of today’s carnival in Greece.

Here in Corfu over the years, the celebrations gained a strong Venetian influence that makes today’s Corfu carnival completely different from those in other parts of Greece.

It also demonstrates the innate zaniness of the Corfiots and shows their creativity

Costumes were worn, and the floats were influenced by medieval pageantry and exuded an aristocratic Venetian “air”.

The satires of absolutely everything are scorching, especially the satires of the politicians, both of today and of the past.

Discretion and conservatism are unknown words, and revelry continues in both the city of Corfu and the villages, where they still maintain many unique customs that you can enjoy watching.

One of them is the famous custom of Venetian marriage, the sets and clothes of the era bring the atmosphere closer to that of the Middle Ages.

Floats parade through the streets during the parade on the first Sunday of the Prodigal Son and also on the last Sunday of Carnival, when the King of Carnival is burned, among other characters that exist only here are the “Ntotoroi” ( doctors), the “nodaroi” (notaries) useful in reading the will of Carnival, and the “Muzeta” that is our name for the carnival masks which give anonymity.

The masqueraders cover the whole of their faces with Muzeta; they are unrecognizable, and they go anywhere and tease people without showing any mercy to their victims.

On the third and last Sunday of the carnival, the parade ends with the final burning of King Carnival, with the symbolic burning of all evil, and the nodaroi (notaries) accompanying him reads his will, which is usually full of innuendos aimed at politicians.

This is followed by a celebration with dances and songs all night.

Benitses 2400 CE-4

What might Benitses in Corfu have been like?

Posted in: All Info to Benitses 0

Benitses in Corfu is a village with deep historical roots, and after Corfu’s Old Town, it stands as the island’s oldest tourist resort. Situated on the east coast, it’s just a short distance from the city center, making it an easily accessible destination.

But could it be different, could it be better?

As Greek locals who live here day in and day out, we see its imperfections more clearly. Infrastructure problems have plagued the village for decades, left unresolved despite the passing of time.

Benitses also lacks natural beaches, which is a real drawback for a coastal village. The beaches someone can see today are artificial, made by the locals who run hotels and shops here, nothing has been done by the state.

The sewer system, old and poorly maintained, sometimes leaves the air heavy with unpleasant odors. Sadly, this isn’t surprising in a country where infrastructure issues are common and neglected. Corruption and inefficiency seem to dominate, leaving many public services in disrepair.

Frequent water and electricity shortages, the long-lived garbage problem that is present all over the island, dammed rivers that create floods, broken roads full of potholes and dangerous turns….these are only a few of the problems in your dreamy tourist “paradise”.

We dream of a better Benitses, a place where these problems are addressed, but deep down, we know it’s a dream that may never come true, not in our lifetimes.

Corfu, with all its beauty and heritage, deserves better. Some of us even question whether it should belong to Greece, a country that too often fails to care for its own. It’s hard not to feel that Corfu, the queen of the Ionian Islands, deserves a brighter future, one free from the shadows of corruption and neglect.

This state has never done anything for Corfu, but they are very good at collecting taxes, that’s the only thing that they can do well!

Today, we’re being brutally honest. And yet, we leave frustration on the site, and we created some idealized images using AI to visualize what Benitses could be one day in the future, in a different world.

Fantastic photos of Benitses (2400 CE)

Don’t be surprised, it’s not reality but just a fantasy. After all, what is real in today’s world? From the news media to social media, ideas, and even religions, much of what we’re told feels like a constructed reality, a series of illusions built on fake facts and empty promises.

So, enjoy your life while you can because it’s short. Don’t put your faith in politicians, journalists, or self-proclaimed experts. In the end, we’re all navigating a world where truth is elusive. As for us? We’ll keep dreaming of a better Benitses.

Go to Benitses Guide

Corfu Town Hall: The San Giacomo Theatre

Posted in: Corfu Town 0
Corfu town hall San Giacomo
Corfu town hall San Giacomo

Nestled at the vibrant crossroads of Eugeniou Voulgareos and M. Theotoki streets, Corfu Town Hall stands as an architectural masterpiece with an intriguing history. This charming edifice exudes an air of timeless elegance, captivating both locals and visitors with its unique allure.

Picture a harmonious blend of Venetian and Greek elements, expertly woven into its design. The façade tells a tale of grandeur, showcasing intricate details that harken back to the building’s origins. It’s not just a mere structure; it’s a cultural gem that has witnessed centuries of transformation.

Let’s rewind to 1691 when the foundation of this building was laid, initially serving as the gathering spot for the Venetian nobles of Corfu – the loggia di Nobili, as they called it in Italian. But that’s just the beginning of its transformation tale.

The San Giacomo Theatre

In 1720, it underwent a magical transition into a theater, named San Giacomo, and held the honor of being Corfu’s first-ever theater and a groundbreaking one for the entire Greek territory.

Between 1733 and 1893, this very theater took center stage as the hub of Greek opera, attracting a symphony of Italian musicians and composers. These creative maestros became part of Corfu’s musical fabric and, in turn, enriched its cultural legacy.

The notes of Italian and Corfiot music traditions harmonized on this very stage, creating an intoxicating blend, thanks to virtuosos like the Corfu composer Nikolaos Halikiopoulos Mantzaros. The crescendo of their artistry reached a high note when Mantzaros musically composed Greece’s national anthem from the poetic words of Dionysios Solomos.

Operas were the heartbeats of this historic stage, often resonating with the delightful strains of opera buffa, a comic opera style that was both entertaining and budget-friendly. Even during challenging times, like sieges, the theater played a dual role as both a tool of propaganda and a morale booster for the community.

The spotlight also shines on the passionate actors and performers who graced the stage – mainly Italians from southern Italy, alongside a sprinkling of Greeks. This became the nurturing ground for Greece’s very first musicians and composers, a pivotal moment when music was still unheard of in the rest of the Greek territory.

Corfu’s relevance during that time cannot be overstated. As the capital of the Ionian state, it was a political and spiritual hub. The San Giacomo Theater was a shining star on Europe’s cultural map, setting the stage for theatrical triumphs.

If work was “applauded in Corfu,” it was granted a golden ticket to perform on European stages. This litmus test ensured that only the best made the cut for international recognition.

Antonio Vivaldi himself graced this stage, presenting his oratorio Juditha Triumphans in honor of the Ottoman siege repulsion in 1716. This triumph paved his way to Milan and beyond, marking his first major oratorio.

Corfu Old Municipal theater
Corfu Old Municipal Theater

However, as time flowed on, the curtain eventually fell on the San Giacomo Theater in 1892, shifting its spotlight to the old Municipal Theater of Corfu. Tragically, this latter theater suffered immense damage due to the German bombing in 1841, ultimately making way for the New Municipal Theater – an architectural shift that might not have won hearts.

New Corfu Municipal Theater
New Corfu Municipal Theater

Corfu Town Hall

In 1903, the grand transformation took place, and the building of San Giacomo was reborn as the City Hall of Corfu – a fitting new chapter for this cultural cornerstone.

Today, the building stands as the Corfu Town Hall, a living relic of the past that remains an integral part of the present. Its walls have seen transformation, adaptation, and reinvention, yet they retain the echoes of the lives and stories that unfolded within.

As you stand before the building, take a moment to immerse yourself in its history. Let your imagination wander through the ages, envisioning Venetian nobles, theatrical wonders, and the birth of a musical legacy. This building isn’t just a monument; it’s a living chapter in Corfu’s narrative, inviting you to be a part of its unfolding story.

So, when you gaze upon the Corfu Town Hall today, remember that it’s not just a building; it’s a living testament to Corfu’s artistic evolution, a stage that once echoed with the melodies of the past and a cornerstone of this enchanting island’s captivating history.

Liston in Corfu

Esplanade (Spianada) Square and Liston in Corfu

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Spianada (Esplanade) square and Liston

The Esplanade is the central square of Corfu and a meeting place for residents and visitors, surrounded by the streets of Iroon Politecniou at the east and north, Eleftherias and Kapodistriou to the West and Akadimias Street in the South, and crossed in the middle by Dousmanis street.

Built-in the style of the Royal Gardens of Europe it is the largest square in the Balkans and one of the largest in Europe.

In the square’s bandstand, there are often concerts and other events, especially during the summer.

Cricket matches are also frequently played there.

Cricket is purely British sport which has been enthusiastically adopted by the Corfiots since the period of English domination of the island.

There are 12 cricket clubs and two other pitches on the island.

Corfu Cricket team is the only cricket team in Greece and so is the Greek National Cricket team also.

To one side of the square is the popular pedestrian area of The Liston with its French architectural buildings (modeled on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris) and numerous cafes.

The construction of The Liston began in 1807 by Napoleon, the sole purpose of the building’s construction was to house the French army.

It was completed in 1814. The buildings were designed by French architect Lesseps and implemented with the assistance of the Greek engineer Ioannis Parmezan.

Corfu Liston is a complex of buildings facing the Esplanade, with arched ground-floor galleries which the locals call “Volta”

The name was given by the word “list” which arrives from the Greek word “lista” that was used for the list of the Nobles (Libro d ‘Oro) as at the old days only the nobility were able to walk in this part in the city.

Today, the arcades of Liston are the busiest part of Corfu, it is filled with cafes, restaurants, and craft shops in general, and one that is busy all year round.

The walk-in front of the Liston’s arches is something that every Corfiot does and taking coffee in one of The Liston’s cafes is a daily habit for many Corfiots…

The Palace of St. Michael and St. George

Posted in: Corfu Town 0

During the era of British rule, High Commissioner Sir Frederick Adams in 1819 decided to build a house for himself and his family.

But he was a little exaggerated, and instead of a house, he created a unique palace in a Georgian style, the Palace of Saint Michael and Saint George in Corfu

The building was designed by the English engineer Colonel Sir George Whitmore (1775-1862), and despite its enormous size, it is elegant and beautiful. It has been described as the best example of Regency architecture outside Britain.

It is the largest palace in Greece, second only to the palace of King Otto in Athens,  which today houses the Greek parliament.

The large line of Doric columns has two gates, the Gate of St. Michael and the Gate of St. George.

In the garden is the statue of Commissioner Frederick Adams made by Corfiot sculptor Pavlos Prosalendis.

Outside, it has carved representations of the Ionian Islands and two rows of Ionic columns surrounding the main hall, showing scenes from the Odyssey.

The first floor is decorated with Corinthian columns.

There are three main halls: the ballroom, the throne room, and the symposium room.

The palace previously housed the Ionian Senate and is the home of the Order of Saint Michael and Saint George.

For half of the century, it was also the summer residence of the former Greek royal family. Today, it has been refurbished as a museum displaying classical antiquities.

A meeting of the summit of the European Union was held here in 1994.

The building looks over the north side of Spianada square on Iroon Politechniou street and also houses the Asian Art Museum and the Municipal Gallery.

Corfu New fortress

Corfu New Fortress: A Venetian Fortification Masterpiece

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The New Fortress in Corfu is another example of the exceptional capacity of Venetians in fortification and an architectural marvel of art.

The New Fortress

New fortress Corfu
New fortress of Corfu

The New Fortress in Corfu is another example of the exceptional capacity of Venetians in fortification, and an architectural marvel of art built by the Venetians and with the physical labor of the inhabitants from 1576 until 1645.

Today it stands as one of the most important monuments of Corfu, as you can find out in this historical sites map.

Venetians, due to the permanent threat of the Turks, felt that it was necessary to complete the fortifications of the city, which meanwhile had been expanded far beyond the existing fortress.

The construction of the new fortress

Corfu New fortress
Corfu New Fortress

The fortress, known as the New Fortress or Fortezza Nuova in Italian, was built between 1576 and 1645 on the rocky hill of San Marcos overlooking the old town of Corfu. The fortress extended south with walls and ramparts reaching the sea at Garitsa Bay. Corfu is now all within the walls; it was then that Corfu took the name Kastropolis.

The New Fortress was designed and built by the Venetian military engineer Ferrante Vitelli. Vitelli was a renowned architect and engineer who worked extensively on fortifications throughout the Venetian Republic, including the construction of the walls of Nicosia in Cyprus and the fortifications of the Dalmatian coast.

The fortress was designed to be a modern and formidable defensive structure, capable of withstanding attacks by both land and sea. It featured a complex system of walls, bastions, and moats, as well as barracks, powder magazines, and other facilities for soldiers and officers.

Vitelli’s design for the New Fortress was highly innovative and influential, and it served as a model for many other fortifications built during the 16th and 17th centuries. Today, the New Fortress is one of the most impressive and well-preserved examples of Renaissance military architecture in Greece, and it is a popular tourist attraction and historical landmark in Corfu.

The construction of the fortress was a response to the increasing threat of Ottoman attacks on the island. It was designed to strengthen the island’s defenses and provide a secure stronghold for the Venetian garrison.

Corfu new fortress
Corfu new fortress

The fortress was built in a pentagonal shape and included a series of walls, bastions, and gates, as well as a moat and a drawbridge. The main entrance was located on the eastern side of the fortress, and it was protected by a massive gate known as the Porta of Spilia.

Despite its formidable defenses, the New Fortress was eventually captured by the French in 1797 and later by the British in 1815. NOTE: In fact, we shouldn’t consider these as captures since the collapse of the Venetian Republic had preceded it after its defeats by the French, and the two fortresses of Corfu were essentially left without a garrison, waiting for the French army.

Today, it remains one of the most impressive examples of Venetian military architecture in the Mediterranean and is a popular tourist attraction in Corfu.

To become a fortress, except for the exhaustive work of the residents, 2,000 houses in particular, where now stands the vast Esplanade square, had to be demolished.

It has been said that materials taken from the ruins of the ancient city of Corfu in Paleopolis were also used, and this was a disaster, to say the least.

The reason for the house’s demolition was not only to find building materials but primarily defensive; the Venetians wanted to create a large buffer zone between the Old Fortress and the city, something that would help better their defense plans. At the same time, this place could be used as the perfect field for military exercises.

That is why today, Corfu has perhaps the largest square in Europe, the famous Esplanade.

Inside the New Fortress of Corfu

Inside the New fortress of Corfu
Inside the New Fortress of Corfu

The New Fortress of Corfu, or Fortezza Nuova, is an impressive complex of buildings and fortifications, which is well worth a visit for those interested in history, architecture, or military strategy.

Once inside the fortress, visitors can explore several different areas, including:

  1. The Parade Ground – This large, open space was originally used for military drills and exercises. Today, it is a popular spot for picnics and relaxation, with stunning views over the city and the sea.
  2. The Barracks – Located in the northern part of the fortress, the barracks were used to house soldiers and officers. They have been restored and now house the Museum of Ceramic Art.
  3. The Powder Magazine – This building was used to store gunpowder and other explosives. Visitors can still see the iron bars on the windows that were used to prevent theft or sabotage.
  4. The Bastions – The fortress has several bastions, which were designed to protect the walls and provide additional firing positions for the defenders. Visitors can climb up to the top of the Bastions for panoramic views over the city and the sea.
  5. The Naval Station of Corfu is also hosted in a new building inside the fort.
  6. The lion of Saint Markos is at the entrance of the new castle, which was the emblem of Venice.

English left marks on the New Fortress

During their domination of the island, the British left their mark on the new fortress as well, by building a barracks next to the main gate and another one on the second level. And the temple of Panagia Spilaiotissa was added by them around 1850.

Overall, the New Fortress of Corfu is a fascinating and historically significant site that offers visitors a glimpse into the island’s rich and complex past.

Exhibitions and events in Corfu’s New Fortress

Corfu new fortress
Corfu new fortress

While it is primarily a fortress and tourist attraction, Corfu’s new fortress also hosts a number of exhibitions and events throughout the year.

  1. The Museum of Ceramic Art – This museum is located in the barracks of the New Fortress and showcases a collection of ceramics from the 19th and 20th centuries. The pieces on display range from traditional Greek pottery to contemporary works by local and international artists.
  2. Concerts and Performances – The New Fortress occasionally hosts concerts and other cultural events, particularly during the summer months. These events may take place in the fortress courtyard or one of the smaller buildings within the complex.
  3. Art Exhibitions – The New Fortress has several exhibition spaces that are occasionally used to showcase contemporary art, photography, and other cultural exhibits. These exhibits may feature works by local or international artists, and they can be a great way to learn more about Corfu’s artistic community.
  4. Historical Reenactments – From time to time, the New Fortress may host historical reenactments or demonstrations of traditional crafts and skills. These events can be a fun and educational way to experience the fortress’s history and learn more about life in Corfu centuries ago.

Overall, the New Fortress of Corfu is a dynamic and multi-faceted attraction that offers visitors a range of cultural and educational experiences throughout the year.

Tickets to enter the fortress

Corfu new fortress
Corfu new fortress

Tickets to enter the New Fortress of Corfu can be purchased at the entrance gate of the fortress. There is a ticket booth on the staircase of Solomos Street where visitors can buy their tickets before entering the site. The ticket price may vary depending on the season and any special events or exhibitions that may be taking place at the time of your visit.

Alternatively, visitors can also purchase tickets online in advance through the official website of the Ministry of Culture and Sports of Greece or other authorized ticket vendors. This can be a convenient option to save time and avoid queuing at the ticket booth.

It is important to note that visitors may need to show proof of vaccination or a negative COVID-19 test result to enter the fortress, as part of the health and safety measures in place due to the ongoing pandemic. It is recommended to check the current regulations and requirements before planning a visit to the New Fortress of Corfu

In Brief

Today, the New Fortress is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Corfu, and visitors can explore its many halls, tunnels, and galleries to learn more about its history and architecture. The fortress is also home to several museums and exhibitions, including the Museum of Ceramic Art, which showcases a collection of ceramics from the 19th and 20th centuries.

In addition to its historical and cultural significance, the New Fortress is also a popular spot for outdoor activities such as hiking, picnicking, and taking in the breathtaking views of Corfu and the surrounding area. Whether you’re a history buff or just looking for a unique and memorable experience in Corfu, the New Fortress is a must-see attraction that should not be missed.

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