Cerberus-the hound at the gate of Underworld

Demons of the Greek Underworld: A Second Descent

Our first journey into the earth ended at Typhon, but the caves go deeper. This time we take the other passage, the one the Greeks believed led to the kingdom of Hades, and we meet the lesser horrors who live there: the spirits that wait on battlefields, the bogey that frightened children, the avengers, the eater of the dead, the jailer of the Titans, and the hound at the gate.

If you have not made the first descent, you can start with Meet Empousa, Phantasos, and 5 Monsters of Greek Mythology. The torch is the same.

Into the Realm of the Dead

In Greek belief, the dead went down to the kingdom of Hades and Persephone, ferried across the river Acheron, whose real-world counterpart you can still visit in Epirus (see Acheron and the Journey to the Underworld). But the dead were not alone down there. Greek writers also put into the underworld demons, hounds, avengers, and spirits that appear in no single story, and we have to look for them in pieces: a poem here, a description of a painting there.

A note before we go. In each chamber we say what the ancient sources tell us, and mark the source at the end. Whenever the cave adds its own atmosphere, you will know it is our imagination.

Here we go. Keep the torch low.

The Keres: Spirits of Violent Death

The Keres-spirits of violent death
The Keres-spirits of violent death

The first chamber is cold, and it smells of iron. Broken shields lie in the dust, and something dark moves just above them.

These are the Keres, the spirits of violent death. In Hesiod’s Theogony, they are daughters of Night, sisters of Doom, Death and Sleep (see The Children of Nyx in Greek Mythology). In the poem called the Shield of Heracles, the Keres hover over a battlefield with white teeth and grim faces, fighting one another to be first to seize the wounded and the dying and drink their blood. In the Iliad, the word is almost a person’s fate: before the last duel between Achilles and Hector, Zeus weighs their two Keres on golden scales to see whose death is nearer.

They do not kill; they wait. They are what a violent death looks like once it has been given a face.

Sources: Hesiod, Theogony and Shield of Heracles; Homer, Iliad.

Mormo: The Bogey Who Bites

Mormo at a child's bedside
Mormo at a child’s bedside

We climb down through a narrow passage that looks like the foot of a bed. In the second chamber, the shadows are small, and they have teeth.

Mormo was no hero’s enemy. She was a bogey, a female monster that Greek mothers and nurses used to frighten children into behaving. Ancient writers such as Strabo and Theocritus mention her, usually in the company of the Lamia and Empousa, the other scarecrows of the nursery. She was said to bite naughty children, and the later form of the name, Mormolyke, suggests a she-wolf.

Her stories are never lost, and that may be the point. A bogey is more frightening when nobody tells you exactly what it does.

Sources: Strabo, Geography; Theocritus, Idylls.

Poine: The Avenger of Argos

Poine snatched babies from the arms of their mothers
Poine snatched babies from the arms of their mothers

The third chamber is full of cradles, and they are all empty.

Poine, whose name means penalty or vengeance, is a monster born from a crime. In the story told by Pausanias and by the Roman poet Statius, the infant Linus, a son of Apollo, was raised by shepherds and torn apart by their dogs. His mother Psamathe died of grief, and Apollo sent Poine to the city of Argos as punishment. She snatched babies from the arms of their mothers until the hero Coroebus killed her.

But even that was not the end. Apollo sent a plague against the city for the death of his avenger, and Coroebus went to Delphi to be cleansed. The oracle told him to carry a tripod until it fell from his hands, and to build a sanctuary where it fell, which he did near Megara.

It is a very Greek story. Even the monster who punishes a crime has to be cleansed away.

Sources: Pausanias 1.43; Statius, Thebaid 1.

The Erinyes: The Furies Who Never Rest

The Erinyes-The Furies who never rest
The Erinyes-The Furies Who Never Rest

In the fourth chamber, the torch burns blue. Something is pacing behind us.

The Erinyes, the Furies, are the avengers of the Underworld. In Hesiod, they are born from the blood that fell from Uranus when Cronus mutilated him, which makes them older than the Olympian gods. Later writers name three of them: Alecto, Tisiphone, and Megaera. They pursue those guilty of the worst crimes, above all the murder of a kinsman and the breaking of an oath, and they do not tire.

The most famous chase is in Aeschylus’ tragedy Eumenides, where the Furies hound Orestes across the world for killing his mother. At the end of the play, the goddess Athena persuades them to settle at Athens as the Eumenides, the kindly ones.

One ancient philosopher, Heraclitus, even said that if the Sun overstepped its measure, the Erinyes would find it out.

Sources: Hesiod, Theogony; Aeschylus, Eumenides; Apollodorus; Heraclitus.

Eurynomos: The Eater of the Dead

Eurynomos-the eater of the dead
Eurynomos-the eater of the dead

We reach the fifth chamber, and the air thickens. This is the kingdom of the dead itself, and it is not quiet.

Eurynomos is one of the strangest figures in the underworld, and we know him from a single description. Pausanias saw a great painting of the Underworld at Delphi, by the artist Polygnotos, and in it he found a figure that the local guides called Eurynomos, a demon of Hades who eats the flesh of the corpses and leaves only the bones. His skin was a color between blue and black, like the color of a meat fly. He bared his teeth, and he sat on a vulture’s skin.

Pausanias adds that the demon was not in Homer. We are looking at a figure of local lore, caught for a moment in a painting that has been lost for centuries.

Sources: Pausanias 10.28.

Campe: The Jailer of Tartarus

Campe-the jailer of Tartarus
Campe-the jailer of Tartarus

The sixth chamber is the deepest yet. The floor drops away, and we can hear the chains of Tartarus, the prison below Hades where the Titans lie.

Before they were freed, the Cyclopes and the Hecatoncheires, whom we met in the first descent, were locked down here, and someone had to guard them. In Apollodorus, that jailer is Campe, a monstrous female dragon set there by Cronus. Gaia told Zeus that he could win the war against the Titans only if he released the prisoners. So he killed Campe, set them free, and the Cyclopes forged for him his thunderbolt.

Hesiod does not name her. Her appearance comes from much later, from the poet Nonnus, who imagined her as a nightmare mixture of beasts and serpents with a scorpion’s tail.

Sources: Apollodorus 1.2.1; Nonnus, Dionysiaca 18.

Cerberus: The Hound at the Gate

Cerberus-the hound at the gate of Underworld
Cerberus-the hound at the gate of Underworld

We have seen what the underworld holds. Now we must leave, and that is the hard part.

In the last chamber, Cerberus waits at the gate. He is the child of Typhon and Echidna (see Typhon and His Terrifying Offspring). Hesiod calls him the bronze-voiced hound of Hades, a shameless and powerful flesh-eater with fifty heads, and he says something chilling about his habits: Cerberus fawns on everyone who enters the house of Hades, wagging his tail and ears, but he will not let anyone go out again, and he devours anyone he catches trying to leave.

Later writers settled on three heads and a serpent’s tail. A few heroes got past him. Heracles dragged him up to the light as the twelfth of his labours, in The 12 Labours of Hercules, and the Roman poet Virgil has the Sibyl throw him a honey cake laced with drugs so that Aeneas can pass.

We have no honey cake, and no hero. So we do what the old ones advised, and we keep our eyes forward, and we do not run.

Sources: Hesiod, Theogony; Apollodorus 2.5.12; Virgil, Aeneid 6.

Back to the Light

We climb. The torch gives its last flicker, and the cave opens onto daylight. We stand blinking in the sun, with a few ghosts still clinging to our sleeves.

The Greeks believed that these demons were real, in the dark places under their feet. They did not need them to be so. They needed them to give a shape to violent death, to guilt, to fear in the nursery, and to the fate that waits for us all.

If you want to go further down, the Greek underworld is waiting in Persephone and Hades and Chthonic and Lesser Gods in Greek Mythology. Some of these places can still be visited, among them Acheron and Cape Tainaron, in Mythological Places in Greece You Can Visit Today. For the famous monsters, see the guide to the monsters of Greek mythology.

A Tradition That Never Died

And here is something we often overlook when we think of Greek mythology as belonging only to the ancient world. This tradition did not remain confined to ancient texts, nor did it disappear with the end of antiquity.

Christianity may have profoundly changed the Greek world, but it did not manage to erase the ancient world.

The older mythological tradition continued to live on in the language, in proverbs, in stories, and in folk tradition. And we are not talking merely about remnants preserved in some remote village or in an old book. Many of these names and figures are still part of everyday speech throughout Greece.

“We’ll have Mormo eat you” is still something we tell children. We say that “the Erinyes are after us” when someone cannot escape the guilt and consequences of something they have done. We say, “You’ll get your Poine.” And of a harsh, merciless person, we say, “He’s a Cerberus.”. When someone dies, we may still say that “Charon took him”. Lamiae are still very much alive in Greek folk tradition, while countless other words, names, and expressions rooted in the ancient mythological world remain familiar and alive, much as they were in the past.

So a tradition that began thousands of years ago is not found only in museums, ancient poems, and books on mythology. It is still alive in the language we speak today.

That may be the strangest journey of all. The gods may have changed, religions may have changed, and the world may have changed many times, but the old stories never stopped speaking.

Mycenae Greece

Mythological Places in Greece You Can Visit Today

Many places in Greece are tied to myths, but they are not all the same kind of place. Some are real landscapes that the Greeks imagined as the setting of a story. Some are sanctuaries where people really worshipped. And some are ruins that a legend was attached to long after they were built. This page walks through the best-known ones, starting on Corfu, and marks each one so you know what you will actually see.

Three Kinds of Places

  • Landscape of a myth: a real place the story is attached to. The story is the reason to go, and nobody has found evidence of the event itself.
  • Sanctuary: a historical place of worship, where people really sacrificed, consulted oracles, or held festivals.
  • Archaeological site with a legend: real ruins that the myth was hung on later, often centuries after the site was built or abandoned.

Some places are more than one kind, and a few are disputed. I say so where it matters.

Mythological Places at a Glance

  • Mouse Island (Pontikonisi), Corfu: landscape of a myth. The Phaeacian ship turned to stone.
  • West coast beaches, Corfu: landscape of a myth. Odysseus meets Nausicaa.
  • Ithaca, Ionian Islands: landscape of a myth (disputed). Odysseus’s kingdom.
  • Acheron and the Nekromanteion, Epirus: landscape of a myth, sanctuary (disputed). The entrance to the underworld.
  • Dodona, Epirus: sanctuary. The oracle of Zeus and the sacred oak.
  • Delphi, Central Greece: sanctuary. Apollo, the Pythia, and the navel of the world.
  • The Acropolis, Attica: sanctuary. Athena and Poseidon compete for Athens.
  • Eleusis, Attica: sanctuary. Demeter, Persephone, and the Mysteries.
  • Olympia, Peloponnese: sanctuary. The games for Zeus.
  • Mycenae, Peloponnese: archaeological site with a legend. Agamemnon’s kingdom.
  • Lerna, Peloponnese: archaeological site with a legend. Heracles and the Hydra.
  • Nemea, Peloponnese: archaeological site with a legend. Heracles and the Nemean lion.
  • Cape Tainaron, Peloponnese (Mani): landscape of a myth. An entrance to Hades.
  • Knossos, Crete: archaeological site with a legend. The Minotaur and the Labyrinth.
  • Delos, Cyclades: sanctuary. The birthplace of Apollo and Artemis.
  • Mount Olympus, Northern Greece: landscape of a myth. The home of the twelve gods.

Start on Corfu: The Island of the Phaeacians

In the Odyssey, Odysseus is washed ashore on Scheria, the land of the Phaeacians, a seafaring people ruled by King Alcinous. Ancient tradition, which the historian Thucydides already noted, identified Scheria with Corfu, and the island has never given up the idea. (Corfu’s own name comes from a different myth: the nymph Kerkyra, carried off by Poseidon.) For the full story, see Shipwreck on the Island of the Phaeacians and Corfu and Ionian Mythology.

Mouse Island (Pontikonisi), Kanoni

Type: landscape of a myth

The Phaeacians take Odysseus home to Ithaca. On the way back, Poseidon, angry that they helped him, turns their ship to stone as it nears the harbour. Corfiots point to the small island of Pontikonisi, off Kanoni, as that petrified ship, and a chapel stands on it. Nothing proves the identification, but it is the best-known myth on the island, and you can see it from Kanoni and from Vlacherna.

The West Coast: Where Odysseus Met Nausicaa

Type: landscape of a myth

Princess Nausicaa discovering shipwrecked Odysseus
Princess Nausicaa discovering shipwrecked Odysseus

Exhausted from the sea, Odysseus is found by the princess Nausicaa while she and her maids wash clothes by the shore. Several places on the west coast claim the scene, among them Ermones and Palaiokastritsa. They cannot all be right, and none can be proved, but each makes a good beach day with a story attached.

Corfu appears in a second epic as well. In the Argonautica, Jason and Medea, pursued by the Colchians, reach the land of the Phaeacians and marry there with the help of Alcinous and his queen. You can read Medea’s side of the story in Medea: The Woman Who Could Not Accept Betrayal.

The Ionian Islands and Epirus

Ithaca

Type: landscape of a myth (disputed)

Odysseus’s home island lies further south in the Ionian Sea. Visitors can see places named for the poem, such as the Arethusa spring and the Cave of the Nymphs, but which island Homer meant by Ithaca is debated, and some scholars have proposed Lefkada instead. The last chapters of the Odyssey are told in Return to Ithaca.

Acheron and the Nekromanteion

Type: landscape of a myth, plus a sanctuary whose identity is disputed

Acheron - The last road to Underworld
Acheron – The last road to Underworld

The Acheron is a real river in Epirus, on the mainland across from Corfu. The Greeks tied its gorges and the meeting of its waters to the rivers of the underworld. A hill near the confluence of the Acheron, Pyriphlegethon and Cocytus carries the ruins that the archaeologist Sotirios Dakaris identified in 1958 as the Oracle of the Dead. He linked them to Odysseus’s visit to the dead in Homer and to Herodotus’s story of the tyrant Periander, who sent messengers to consult his dead wife Melissa.

Not everyone accepts that reading. In 1979, the German scholar Dietwulf Baatz recognized parts of third-century BCE catapults among the finds and argued that the building was a fortified Hellenistic farmstead. A 2022 paper suggests yet another possibility: a fortified trading station. The Romans burned the site in 167 BCE. Visitors today can still descend into the vaulted underground chamber.

For the myth itself, read Acheron and the Journey to the Underworld.

Dodona

Type: sanctuary

Dodona was one of the oldest oracles of Zeus in Greece, and Homer already knew it. According to tradition, the priests interpreted the rustling of the leaves of a sacred oak. In the mountains near Ioannina, you can walk through the ruins and the large ancient theatre.

Central Greece and Attica

Delphi

Type: sanctuary

Delphi oracle in Greece
Delphi oracle in Greece

The most famous oracle of the ancient world was the sanctuary of Apollo on the slope of Mount Parnassus. In myth, Apollo killed the serpent Python here, and Zeus found the centre of the world: he sent two eagles flying from opposite ends of the earth, and they met at Delphi. A carved stone, the omphalos, marked the spot. The priestess, the Pythia, gave answers in the god’s name, and cities consulted her before founding colonies or going to war. Delphi is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Acropolis, Athens

Type: sanctuary

Acropolis of Athens
Acropolis of Athens

When Athena and Poseidon competed to become the patron of Athens, Poseidon struck the rock with his trident and brought up a salt spring, and Athena planted an olive tree. The Athenians chose Athena. Beside the Parthenon, the Erechtheion was the place where the olive tree and the marks of the trident were said to be.

Eleusis

Type: sanctuary

When Hades carried off Persephone, her mother Demeter searched the earth for her and, in the Homeric Hymn, came to Eleusis. There she was honoured with the Eleusinian Mysteries, the most important secret rites in ancient Greece, whose initiates swore never to reveal what they saw. The ruins lie in modern Elefsina, west of Athens. The myth is told in Persephone and Hades.

The Peloponnese

Olympia

Type: sanctuary

Ancient Olympic Stadium
Ancient Olympic Stadium

The Olympic Games were held here every four years in honour of Zeus. The myths give different founders: Heracles in some versions, and in others the hero Pelops, who won his bride in a chariot race. The temple of Zeus once held a gigantic statue of the god by Phidias, one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. The statue is lost, but the ruins, the stadium, and the workshop where it was made can still be seen. The history of the games is in the Olympic Games in Ancient Greece.

Mycenae

Type: archaeological site with a legend

Mycenae Greece
Mycenae Greece

The citadel entered through the Lion Gate was the legendary kingdom of Agamemnon, who led the Greeks to Troy and was murdered on his return. The legend is younger than the stones. The gold mask that Heinrich Schliemann called the Mask of Agamemnon was made several centuries before any possible Trojan War, and the Treasury of Atreus is a great tomb that later tradition gave its name to. The story of the war is in The Trojan War: Before, During and After the Iliad.

Lerna

Type: archaeological site with a legend

Hercules - The Lernean Hydra
Hercules – The Lernean Hydra

Heracles’s second labour was to kill the many-headed Hydra, which lived in the marshes and springs of Lerna near Argos. Lerna is a small site with the remains of an Early Bronze Age building. It is modest, but it is easily reached from Mycenae and Nemea. The labours are told in The 12 Labours of Hercules.

Nemea

Type: archaeological site with a legend

Heracles’s first labour was to kill the Nemean lion, whose hide he wore afterwards. Nemea had a temple of Zeus and a stadium, and it held one of the great Panhellenic games. The vaulted tunnel that athletes used to enter the stadium still survives.

Cape Tainaron

Type: landscape of a myth

At the southern tip of the Mani peninsula, ancient tradition placed one of the entrances to Hades. Here Heracles was said to have dragged the hound Cerberus up into daylight during his last labour, and in antiquity there was an oracle of the dead on the cape. It is a wild and remote place with the remains of a temple of Poseidon, and reaching the tip involves a walk. For the gods of the underworld, see Chthonic and Lesser Gods in Greek Mythology.

Crete, the Islands and the North

Knossos, Crete

Type: archaeological site with a legend

King Minos’s palace was the setting of the Minotaur story: the half-man, half-bull kept in the Labyrinth built by Daedalus, until Theseus killed it with the help of Ariadne. Arthur Evans began excavating the palace in 1900 and reconstructed parts of it in colourful concrete. No labyrinth has been found, but the maze of rooms may have inspired the story. See Theseus and the Minotaur and Daedalus and Icarus.

Delos

Type: sanctuary

In myth, Delos was the island where Leto gave birth to Apollo and Artemis, and it became one of the holiest places in Greece. In 426 BCE, the Athenians purified it by removing graves, and later births and deaths were forbidden on the island. It also grew into a wealthy trading port. Today it is an uninhabited archaeological site, reached by boat from Mykonos and famous for its Terrace of the Lions.

Mount Olympus

Type: landscape of a myth

The ancient Greeks imagined the twelve Olympian gods living on the summit of Greece’s highest mountain, 2,917 metres at its top, Mytikas. Unlike most places on this page, it is a real and serious mountain. The usual route starts from Litochoro, and a climb needs preparation and good weather. See The 12 Olympian Gods.

And Troy?

Troy is not in Greece. Its remains lie at Hisarlik in northwestern Turkey, and its story is told in The Trojan War: Before, During and After the Iliad. More myths, gods and heroes are in the main Greek Mythology section.

The Trojan horse

The Trojan War: Before, During and After the Iliad

Most people think they know the Trojan War from the Iliad. They don’t, quite. Homer’s poem covers only about seven weeks of the tenth year, and it stops before Achilles dies, before the wooden horse, before Troy falls. The most famous parts of the story come from other poems, most of them lost, and from writers who came centuries later.

This page tells the whole war in order and marks where each part comes from.

Where the Story Comes From

Iphigenia’s sacrifice at Aulis before the Greek fleet sails for Troy.
Iphigenia’s sacrifice at Aulis before the Greek fleet sails for Troy.

Three kinds of sources make up the Trojan War as we tell it today, and I mark each section with one of them:

  • Iliad: Homer’s poem, which survives in its entirety.
  • Epic Cycle: a group of poems that told the rest of the war, from its causes to the returns home. Only fragments survive, plus a summary attributed to a writer called Proclus. We know the plot of these poems, but not their words.
  • Later tradition: details added by later writers such as Virgil and Statius.

The Odyssey also recalls episodes of the war, so it sometimes fills gaps as well.

The Trojan War at a Glance

  • Before the war: the golden apple, the Judgment of Paris, Helen taken to Troy, the fleet gathering at Aulis and Iphigenia. Source: Epic Cycle (Cypria)
  • Years 1 to 9: raids on the cities around Troy and a stalemate at the walls. Source: Epic Cycle (Cypria), assumed in the Iliad
  • Year 10: the quarrel of Agamemnon and Achilles, Patroclus, Hector, and Priam’s ransom. Source: Iliad
  • After the Iliad: Penthesilea, Memnon and the death of Achilles. Source: Epic Cycle (Aethiopis)
  • After the Iliad: the invulnerable heel. Source: later tradition (Statius)
  • After the Iliad: the armor contest, Philoctetes, Neoptolemus, the Palladion and the horse. Source: Epic Cycle (Little Iliad)
  • After the Iliad: the sack of Troy. Source: Epic Cycle (Sack of Ilium), Virgil
  • The returns: the journeys home, Agamemnon’s murder and Odysseus. Source: Epic Cycle (Returns), Odyssey

Before the War: The Apple, Helen and the Oath

Source: Epic Cycle (Cypria); the oath from later tradition

Golden apple marked “For the Fairest” between Hera, Athena, and Aphrodite.
Golden apple marked “For the Fairest” between Hera, Athena, and Aphrodite.

At the wedding of the mortal Peleus and the sea goddess Thetis, the future parents of Achilles, one guest was left off the list: Eris, goddess of strife. She sent in a golden apple marked “for the fairest”. Hera, Athena and Aphrodite each claimed it, Zeus refused to choose, and the decision fell to Paris, a Trojan prince raised as a shepherd on Mount Ida. Aphrodite offered him the most beautiful woman in the world, and he gave her the apple. You can read the full scene in The Judgment of Paris.

Helen of Sparta
Helen of Sparta

The woman was Helen, already the wife of Menelaus of Sparta. Later tradition adds that her many suitors had once sworn an oath, proposed by Odysseus, to defend whoever became her husband. When Paris carried her off to Troy, Menelaus and his brother Agamemnon, king of Mycenae, called the oath in. Kings from across Greece answered with more than a thousand ships.

The Cypria also gives the war a darker purpose: Zeus himself, it says, planned it to thin out a crowded earth, and the quarrel over Helen was his means.

The fleet gathered at Aulis, where the winds failed. Agamemnon had offended Artemis, and the seer Calchas declared that his daughter Iphigenia must be sacrificed. In the Cypria, Artemis snatches the girl away at the last moment. Other versions let the sacrifice stand. Along the way, Philoctetes was bitten by a snake and left behind on Lemnos, and Protesilaus became the first Greek to leap ashore at Troy and the first to die there.

The First Nine Years

Source: Epic Cycle (Cypria), assumed in the Iliad

The Greeks could not break the walls of Troy, so they spent years raiding the surrounding cities and countryside for treasure and captives. Two of those captives, Chryseis and Briseis, matter later. Troy, for its part, drew in allies from across Anatolia.

The Rage of Achilles: What the Iliad Covers

Source: Iliad

Achilles with Briseis and Agamemnon with Chryseis during the Trojan War.
Achilles with Briseis and Agamemnon with Chryseis during the Trojan War.

The Iliad opens in the tenth year. Agamemnon refuses to return Chryseis to her father, a priest of Apollo, and the god sends a plague on the Greek camp. Agamemnon gives her back, but takes Briseis from Achilles to make up for it. Insulted, Achilles withdraws from the fighting, and Zeus promises to see that the Greeks suffer for it.

They do. Achilles’ close friend Patroclus enters the battle wearing his armor and is killed by Hector, prince of Troy. Achilles returns in a rage, kills Hector, and drags the body behind his chariot. Then, with Hermes’ help, old King Priam walks into the Greek camp at night to beg for his son’s body, and Achilles gives it back. The poem ends with Hector’s funeral.

The gods take sides throughout: Hera, Athena, and Poseidon back the Greeks, while Aphrodite, Apollo, and Ares back Troy. And that’s all the Iliad contains. It has no wooden horse, no death of Achilles, and no fall of Troy.

After the Iliad: The Death of Achilles and the Fall of Troy

Source: Epic Cycle (Aethiopis, Little Iliad, Sack of Ilium)

Two allies arrive. Penthesilea, queen of the Amazons, comes to help Troy and is killed by Achilles. Then Memnon, king of the Ethiopians and son of the goddess Dawn, is killed by him too.

Achilles dies. Hector had foretold it with his dying words, and it happens at the Scaean Gate: Paris shoots the arrow, and Apollo guides it. Ajax carries the body out of the fighting while Odysseus holds off the Trojans.

The heel is not here. The story that Achilles’ mother dipped him in the river Styx, leaving only his heel vulnerable, is not in Homer or the Cycle. It first appears in the Roman poet Statius, centuries after the war’s last storytellers.

The armor contest. Ajax and Odysseus both claim Achilles’ armor, and the Greeks award it to Odysseus. Ajax, maddened by the insult, takes his own life.

The final pieces. A prophecy says Troy cannot fall without two things: the bow of Heracles, held by the abandoned Philoctetes, and Achilles’ young son Neoptolemus. Both are brought to Troy. Philoctetes is healed and kills Paris, and Neoptolemus fights with the courage of his father. Odysseus and Diomedes also steal the Palladium, a sacred statue of Athena that protects the city.

The Trojan horse
The Trojan horse

The horse. With Athena’s help, the builder Epeius makes a huge wooden horse. The Greeks burn their camp and sail away to the island of Tenedos, leaving the horse behind and a man, Sinon, to tell the Trojans it is an offering to Athena. The Trojans haul it inside their walls. In the Cycle’s summary, Laocoön is killed by serpents, and Aeneas withdraws to Mount Ida, scenes that Virgil later made famous. The Iliad never narrates the horse, and the Odyssey only recalls it in passing.

The sack. At night the Greeks come out of the horse and open the gates to their returning fleet. Troy burns. Priam is killed at an altar, Hector’s little son Astyanax is thrown from the walls, Polyxena is sacrificed at Achilles’ tomb, and the prophetess Cassandra is dragged from Athena’s statue, an act of sacrilege that will cost the Greeks dearly. Menelaus finds Helen and takes her back.

The Returns

Source: Epic Cycle (Returns), Odyssey

Victory did not bring the Greeks home safely. Athena, angered by the sacrilege, sent storms against the returning fleet. Agamemnon reached Mycenae, only to be murdered by his wife Clytemnestra (twin sister of Helen of Sparta) and her lover Aegisthus. Menelaus wandered for years before reaching Sparta.

The longest journey belongs to Odysseus, and the Odyssey is the story of it. If you want to follow him, start with The Odyssey category. On Corfu, we have a personal interest in one of the stops: the island of the Phaeacians, which ancient tradition already identified with Corfu. You can read about it in Shipwreck on the Island of the Phaeacians.

Was There a Real Troy?

There was a real city. Its remains lie at Hisarlik in northwestern Turkey, with many layers of settlement built one over another, and archaeologists debate which layer, if any, matches Homer’s Troy. Whether a single great war lay behind the story is disputed.

Some outside evidence comes from the Hittite archives found at Hattusa, the capital of the Hittite Empire in central Anatolia. Their texts mention a kingdom called Wilusa in western Anatolia, which most scholars identify with Troy (Ilios in Greek, probably once pronounced Wilios), and a western power called Ahhiyawa, usually identified with the Mycenaean Greeks, the Achaeans of the Iliad.

A treaty of about 1280 BCE between the Hittite king Muwatalli II and Alaksandu, ruler of Wilusa, shows that Troy was a recognized state with diplomatic ties. Other Hittite documents of the thirteenth century BCE record tensions and disputes in the region. But this is not proof of the Homeric war: the texts describe no siege of Troy, and scholars disagree about how to read them.

The excavations point to two candidate layers. Troy VI, which lasted from about 1750 to 1300 BCE, ended in destruction around 1300 BCE, which research from the 1930s attributed to an earthquake. Its successor, Troy VIIa, was built by the same inhabitants, and it was burned around 1180 BCE. Arrowheads, sling bullets, and burnt buildings were found there, so most scholars now favor it as the setting behind the legend.

Some link its destruction to the wider upheaval of the Sea Peoples at the end of the Bronze Age. The Hittite records point to disputes in the thirteenth century BCE, while Troy VIIa fell around 1180 BCE, so the memory behind the war may combine more than one event.

Homer composed his poems long after the Bronze Age, and his world mixes details from several centuries. What is clear is that the story took hold across the Greek world, and the poems that told it shaped Greek religion and storytelling for a thousand years.

For the gods who take part, see The 12 Olympian Gods and the main Greek Mythology page.

Charon carrying deads in Underworld

Acheron and the Journey to the Underworld

The Acheron River

Acheron - The last road to Underworld
Acheron – The last road to Underworld

The Acheron is a real river in Epirus, northwestern Greece. It rises in the mountains and flows through a wild landscape of springs, gorges, and wetlands before reaching the Ionian Sea.

For the ancient Greeks, however, the Acheron was much more than a geographical feature. It was the river of the Underworld, associated with Hades and the passage of the dead. This is one of the most remarkable cases in Greek mythology where an actual landscape became inseparably connected with the world of the gods and the dead.

The name Acheron is usually connected with grief or woe, and the river appears in the ancient literary tradition as one of the waters of the Underworld. In later tradition, Charon carries the souls of the dead across its waters toward Hades.

The association was not simply the invention of poets. Ancient Greeks knew the Acheron of Epirus as a real river, and the strange, remote character of its landscape helped create its connection with the Underworld. The nearby Nekromanteion, the ancient “Oracle of the Dead”, is further evidence of how strongly this particular region became associated with the world of the dead.

And what about the Styx?

The Styx is often presented today as the river of the Greek Underworld. This is misleading when applied to the older Greek tradition.

In early Greek mythology, Styx had a different significance. In Hesiod, Styx is a divine river and a goddess, and the gods swear their most solemn oaths by its waters. It was a small river, more like a series of waterfalls in Arcadia, not simply another name for the Acheron.

The familiar image of Styx as the river crossed by the dead became particularly influential through later literature, especially Roman literature such as Virgil. It should therefore not be used to erase the much older and more direct Greek association between Acheron and the Underworld.

The Acheron remains a real river that can still be visited today — a physical landscape in Epirus that the ancient Greeks connected with one of the deepest ideas in their mythology: the boundary between the world of the living and the world of the dead.

Charon, the Ferryman of the Dead

Charon carrying deads in Underworld
Charon carrying deads in Underworld

According to the ancient Greek conception of the journey to the Underworld, the dead did not simply disappear into Hades. Their souls had to make a journey.

Hermes, in his role as Psychopompos — the Guide of Souls — led the dead from the world of the living to the waters of the Underworld. There, Charon (Χάρων), the grim ferryman, waited in his boat to carry them across.

Charon was not offering his service for free.

The traditional fare was one obol, a small Greek coin. This explains the ancient funerary custom of placing a coin with the dead, most famously in the mouth, so that the deceased would have the means to pay Charon for the crossing. Archaeological evidence confirms that coins were indeed placed with the dead, although in practice the denomination and exact position could vary.

Menippus, the Cynic philosopher who died without money

The idea produced one of the most memorable pieces of humour in ancient Greek literature.

In Lucian’s Dialogues of the Dead, the Cynic philosopher Menippus arrives at Charon’s boat without an obol. After carrying him across, Charon demands his fare:

Χάρων: ἀπόδος, φημί, ἀνθ’ ὧν σε διεπορθμεύσαμεν.
Μένιππος: οὐκ ἂν λάβοις παρὰ τοῦ μὴ ἔχοντος.

In other words:

“Pay me for carrying you across.”
“You cannot take it from someone who does not have it.”

Charon asking Menipus for money
Charon asking Menipus for money

Charon cannot believe that anyone could arrive at his boat without the necessary obol. Menippus simply tells him that he has none. When Charon threatens him, Menippus threatens him back. When Charon insists that everyone must pay, Menippus replies that if he has no money, there is nothing Charon can take.

He even tells Charon that Hermes should pay for him, since Hermes was the one who brought him there. Hermes, naturally, refuses to pay the fares of the dead.

Menippus then points out that he did not cross entirely for free anyway: he helped with the oar and bailed water from the boat. Finally, when Charon asks what he has in his wallet, Menippus reveals that he has only some beans and food for Hecate.

Menipus says to Charon: You cannot take from one who has nothing.
Charon swearing to Menipus for money

This satirical scene gave us the famous Greek saying:

«Οὐκ ἂν λάβοις παρὰ τοῦ μὴ ἔχοντος.»

Literally:

“You cannot take from one who has nothing.”

It became the proverbial «ουκ αν λάβοις παρά του μη έχοντος», still used today when someone demands something from a person who simply does not possess it.

There is something particularly appropriate about the joke. Even at the gates of the Underworld, Menippus refuses to accept that a rule can create something that does not exist. Charon can demand his obol as much as he likes. A man without an obol cannot pay an obol.

And so, in Lucian’s wonderfully irreverent version of the journey to the dead, the great ferryman of Hades meets a problem that no god, law, or threat can solve:

The passenger has no money.

Medousa with the head of Perseus

Medusa: From Woman to Monster to Symbol of Resistance

But Who Was Medusa (Medousa in Greek)?

Medusa priestess of Athena
Medusa, priestess of Athena

Medusa was not the monster that mythology says. In reality, she was a beautiful woman and a priestess of Athena, serving the goddess in her temple. All priestesses of Athena should remain virgins!

Poseidon desired her, but Medusa resisted him. In the end, Poseidon raped her inside Athena’s temple. A horrible act and example of a male-dominated society.

Yet it was not Poseidon who was punished.

Athena turned her own priestess into a monster. Her beautiful hair became living snakes, and her gaze became so deadly that anyone who looked directly at her was turned to stone.

Medusa was condemned for the violence committed against her.

It is one of the most disturbing stories in Greek mythology: the woman is punished, while the powerful male god escapes punishment.

Medusa’s transformation can therefore be seen as one of mythology’s starkest examples of injustice against women, reflecting a society in which the woman could bear the blame for a man’s actions.

Medusa’s fate was given a remarkable new interpretation

Almost three thousand years after the ancient story first appeared, Medusa’s fate was given a remarkable new interpretation.

In 2008, the Italian-Argentine sculptor Luciano Garbati created a sculpture called Medusa with the Head of Perseus. Instead of showing Perseus holding the severed head of Medusa, as the traditional story does, Garbati reversed the scene.

Medusa (Medusa) is standing with the severed head of Perseus in one hand and a sword in the other.

The sculpture was conceived as a response to one of the most famous representations of the myth: **Benvenuto Cellini’s **Perseus with the Head of Medusa, the celebrated Renaissance bronze displayed in Florence’s Loggia dei Lanzi. Garbati had grown up near Florence and knew Cellini’s sculpture well. His work deliberately turns Cellini’s composition and the ancient story upside down.

Garbati’s Medusa is not portrayed as the hideous monster of the ancient images. Apart from her serpentine hair, she has the body and appearance of a beautiful woman. She does not look triumphant or bloodthirsty. Instead, she appears calm and determined, holding the head of the man who came to kill her.

The sculpture was created in 2008, but it became widely known a decade later. In 2018, a photograph of the work circulated widely on social media, accompanied by the words “Be thankful we only want equality and not payback.” The image attracted considerable attention and eventually led to a New York exhibition.

Then came the most striking setting imaginable.

In October 2020, a seven-foot bronze version of Medusa with the Head of Perseus was installed in Collect Pond Park in Lower Manhattan, directly across from the New York County Criminal Court. The sculpture was part of the NYC Parks Art in the Parks programme and remained on display for several months.

The location was not accidental in its symbolism.

The New York County Criminal Court had been the setting for numerous criminal cases, and the installation came during the period when the #MeToo movement had brought sexual violence, abuse and the treatment of victims into worldwide public discussion. The location also carried a particularly strong association with the sexual-assault case against Harvey Weinstein, whose trial had taken place at the courthouse.

The ancient story had placed Medusa on trial without ever giving her a voice. She was violated, transformed into a monster, hunted, and finally killed.

The modern sculpture puts her in front of a courthouse.

But this time, Medusa is not the accused. She is the one standing with the sword.

The symbolism was quickly embraced by many people as a representation of women’s anger, resistance, and self-defence, and the sculpture became associated with #MeToo. The MWTH Project described the work as an inversion of the traditional narrative, presenting Medusa at a moment of empowered self-defence.

There is an interesting irony in this modern interpretation. Garbati has said that when he created the sculpture, he was not aware that Medusa had already become a feminist icon. His starting point was much simpler: he admired Cellini’s Perseus with the Head of Medusa and wanted to reverse the roles of the two figures.

Yet the reversal gave the ancient story a completely different meaning.

For centuries, the image was:

Perseus → holding Medusa’s head.

Garbati changed it to:

Medusa → holding Perseus’ head.

Medousa with the head of Perseus
Medusa with the head of Perseus

The monster becomes the survivor.
The victim becomes the one holding the sword.
And the woman who was once blamed and punished is finally given the power to tell the story from her own side.

Whether one sees the ancient myth as a reflection of its society or simply as a story that changed through the centuries, the modern Medusa has acquired a meaning far beyond the original legend.

The woman who was once turned into a monster has become, for many, a symbol of resistance.

Solari road in Corfu

Driving, Shopping & Parking in Corfu

Posted in: Corfu Information 0

Corfu Driving & Shopping Guide: How to Beat the Summer Gridlock

Visiting Corfu by car during the peak summer months is a fantastic way to reach remote beaches, but driving around the Corfu Town perimeter requires a serious reality check. The island’s infrastructure stretches along radial roads like an endless urban net.

Today, every major countrywide Greek retail chain has at least one massive store here, but they are scattered across very different corridors. If you are a domestic road-tripper or a foreign visitor, you need to know exactly which roads to target—and which ones will trap you for hours.

We decided to add this new resource to our Corfu Island Guide to give you a true sense of the local reality and warn you about some traffic and shopping challenges you might face during your visit.

The South Artery (Lefkimis Road): Corfu’s 5-Kilometer Nightmare

If you are staying south of town in places like Benitses, brace yourself.

The real summer nightmare is heavily concentrated strictly in the first 5 kilometers leading out of Corfu Town along Lefkimis National Road.

The root cause of this massive bottleneck comes down to sheer numbers: this narrow, single-lane road is the only lifeline serving nearly 20,000 year-round residents living in the south and middle Corfu.

The Achilleion municipality alone is the most populous region on the island after Corfu Town, boasting over 10,000 citizens.

Because of this high local population, this bottleneck is an all-year-round problem, not just a seasonal issue.

However, when you inject thousands of summer rental cars into the mix, the infrastructure completely collapses under the weight.

To make matters worse, this initial 5km stretch is packed with major commercial destinations that cause constant turn-off delays, including specialized fast-food pickups, car repair shops, and an intense concentration of major supermarkets, including:

  • Masoutis
  • Lidl
  • Diellas
  • AB Vassilopoulos (Branch No. 2)
  • Sklavenitis
  • METRO Cash & Carry (Note: This is strictly for wholesale/professionals only)

During August, the gridlock hits a breaking point that leaves every resident wishing the month would go away quickly, as the traffic frequently backs up all the way to Perama.

Covering the short 11km distance from Benitses to town can easily take up to 2 hours, which is why locals prefer not to touch their cars at all during peak season.

This road desperately needs a modern expansion to handle the island’s growth, but until that happens, you must prepare for massive delays or avoid peak hours entirely.

The Southern Highway Relief: Once you finally clear the town perimeter and get past Messonghi, the script completely flips.

From there down to the southern tip, the road is brand new. It is wide, fast, and lets you reach Lefkimi Town and its ferry port in 30 minutes easily.

If you are catching a ferry to the mainland from the south, which is cheaper than those from Corfu town port, just make sure to budget all your extra time for that messy first 5km bottleneck near town.

The North Artery (Solari): The Easy-Traffic Electronics & Banking Hub

Solari road in Corfu
Solari road in Corfu

In stark contrast to the south, the Paleokastritsa National Road—known universally by its local nickname, “Solari”—is wide and handles its heavy traffic flow with ease, even though it acts as the primary vein connecting most of North Corfu with the town.

If you choose accommodation in the North of the island, your driving experience will be completely different and significantly easier because of this road.

Years ago, clothing and fashion shops were found exclusively inside the narrow alleys of the Old Town.

Today, apparel stores are rapidly increasing along Solari, choosing the strip because it offers the physical space they need.

More importantly, Solari is the island’s undisputed hub for electronics and appliances.

If you need a TV, a phone charger, or electrical supplies, this is where you will find major tech retailers like Kotsovolos, Electronet, Kafkas, and the Cooperative (Συνεταιρισμός) of Corfu Electricians.

The strip is also a vital corridor for automotive care, lined with numerous car repair shops.

The Banking & Grocery Scene at Solari: While many banks across the island have consolidated or closed branches lately, Solari remains a functional banking hub where you can still find active branches of Alpha Bank and Trapeza Pisteos (Credit Bank / Alpha Bank network).

For your primary grocery shopping, this wide highway also hosts a major, spacious branch of the AB Vassilopoulos supermarket chain, complete with large, free parking lots.

The West Roads (Pelekas National Road): Low Traffic & Quiet Shopping

The roads radiating out toward the west side of the island—specifically the Pelekas National Road are significantly less busy, making the West another excellent, stress-free area to choose for accommodation. Because traffic is so light, you will experience virtually zero driving delays here.

It’s the road leading to the sandy beaches of the west of Corfu, such as Glyfada, Agios Gordis, and Pelekas.

Due to the lower traffic volume, this western corridor has experienced some economic decline over recent years, meaning it lacks the high-energy commercial rush of Solari.

However, for a visitor, this is a major advantage: it is incredibly easy to visit, navigate, and park. It serves as an excellent, quiet alternative for finding specific local shops, essential supermarkets, and various food shops without fighting any central town congestion.

The Corfu Town Parking Reality (The 5€ Trap & Sudden Price Spikes)

Before looking for a spot, you must understand the layout: cars are strictly forbidden inside the historic Old Corfu town. The entire historic center is pedestrianized. Vehicle traffic is forced onto a peripheral road system that encircles the ancient borders:

  • The East Route (Mouragia): Traffic hugs the coast, running outside the Old Fortress. It then loops uniquely through a scenic palace gate at a point right next to the famous Liston area, moving through the Mouragia area behind the Palace of St. Michael and St. George.  This is your primary route if you are aiming for the Old Fortress, the Palace, or the Liston.
  • The West Border: To the west, the border is defined by the massive walls of the New Fortress, with the road wrapping completely around the western walls of it, surrounding the Old Town until it reconnects with the East route at the northern point of Esplanade square, toward the Old Fortress.

The largest problem that every driver faces in the town is finding a place to park. It’s almost impossible in normal circumstances, so the options left are parking lots around the new city, but with caveats.

  • The 2-Hour Penalty (Private Lots): Small, ultra-central private lots capitalize on driver desperation. They will gladly charge you 5€ for just 1 to 2 hours, turning a quick errand into an expensive chore.
  • Unwarned “On-the-Fly” Price Changes: The worst part about central private operators is their complete lack of transparency. They regularly change their prices on the fly without any warning. A lot that charges a reasonable rate on a quiet morning can suddenly double its fee by 8:00 PM when the dinner rush hits or when a cruise ship unloads.
  • The 8:00 PM Gridlock: By mid-evening in July and August, central streets completely lock up. Drivers waste hours idling in tight, narrow side streets hoping for a miracle, only to find every lot turned away with a “FULL” sign.
  • The Workaround: Skip the inner grid completely. Drive straight to the larger public options, like the open parking lot at the Old Port (Palio Limani) or the areas near the New Fortress. They are much easier to access, cheaper, and put you just a pleasant 10-minute walk away from the historic alleys.

Where to Find the Cheapest, Most Convenient Parking: To beat the traps and avoid unexpected price gouging, you need to target the larger municipal perimeter lots that offer stable, predictable pricing. The two largest and most reliable parking lots in town both belong directly to the municipality, making them your best choices for safety and fair rates:

  1. The Giant New Fortress Perimeter Lot (The Local Favorite): This is the largest and most convenient municipal parking area serving the town perimeter, capable of holding hundreds of vehicles. Situated just west of the New Fortress in the New Town, it sits in a perfect strategic location—close enough to San Rocco Square, the central local market, and the port area. It offers highly reasonable, stable flat prices (often running around €5 to €7 for the whole day), and you don’t have to surrender your keys like in tight private garages.
  2. The Spianada Square Municipal Lot (Best for the Old Fortress, Palace & Liston): Located right at the Town Square (Kato Platia) near the Liston. This is a massive municipal lot equipped with automatic barriers. It charges an unbeatable, fixed flat fee of only €3 for 24 hours. If your primary destination is the Old Fortress or the Palace, this is the absolute closest spot. The Catch: Because it is the best deal in the absolute center, it fills up rapidly. By evening, wait times at the gate barrier can easily exceed 20 to 30 minutes.
  3. The Free Local Secret: “Dasaki” (Το Δασάκι): For budget travelers who don’t mind a bit of a rustic parking experience, there is a completely free option hidden inside a small wooded area located on a low hill just after the Courthouse, behind the Corfu prison. To get there, simply follow Kolokotroni Street at the start of M. Methodiou. This dirt-and-tree lot stretches all the way down until it sits just meters from the National Football Stadium and close to the airport. Older generations of Corfiots affectionately nicknamed this spot “Το Δασάκι” (The Little Forest), historically known as a local “love refugee” hideaway. The Catch: It is completely free, but it is not very comfortable. You must carefully navigate your car in between trees, roots, and uneven dirt tracks to carve out a spot.
  4. The Old Port Lot (Palio Limani): Located right by the seafront promenade. This area typically charges a stable flat rate of €5 per day. It puts you just a 3-to-5-minute walk away from the historic Old Town alleys and is much easier to exit when leaving town.
  5. Parking89 (Donatou Dimoulitsa): An open-air lot located just about 1km from the city center, right near the southern town entrance. It offers a rock-bottom rate of €3 to €4 for all-day parking. Even better, parking here is completely free on Saturday afternoons and Sundays, making it a highly reliable backup!

A Final Tip for Domestic Visitors

If you are arriving via the mainland ferry, do not overpack your vehicle with heavy crates of water or bulk groceries from the mainland. Every trusted national brand, superstore, and chain you rely on at home is operating right here on Corfu’s outer arteries.

Drop your heavy luggage at your accommodation first, navigate away from the narrow south bottlenecks, and do your heavy shopping comfortably on the wider commercial strips where parking is free and easy.

 

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